Electric Stove Burner Not Working — Causes and Fixes
When a single electric burner won't heat (coil or smoothtop), the problem is usually localized to that element or its connection — not the whole stove. Here is how to pin it down.
Coil Burner: Swap to Test
On a coil cooktop, the fastest test is to swap the dead burner with a working one of the same size. Unplug the coil from its socket and plug a known-good coil into the dead position. If the good coil heats there, your original element is bad. If it still won't heat, the socket/receptacle or wiring is the issue.
Replace the Element or Socket
A burned-out coil element is cheap and plugs right in — match the size and prongs. If the socket is charred (a common failure where the prongs corrode and arc), replace the receptacle block too; a burnt socket will kill the next element.
Smoothtop (Radiant): Check Wiring
On a glass smoothtop, a single dead element usually means the radiant element under the glass has failed, or its wiring connection burned. This requires lifting the cooktop — a moderate repair. If all elements are dead, suspect the control board or power.
All Burners Dead
If no burner works but the clock/display is on, you may have lost one leg of the 240V supply — check both halves of the double breaker. If the whole stove is dead, check the breaker and the outlet/cord.
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FAQ
Swap a known-good coil into the dead spot. If it heats, the element was bad. If it stays cold, the socket or wiring is the problem.
You may have lost one leg of the 240V power to the cooktop. Check both halves of the double breaker.
Always unplug an appliance and shut off its water supply before servicing. This guide is informational and not a substitute for a qualified technician.