Induction Cooktop Not Working or Not Heating — Fixes
Induction cooktops only heat magnetic cookware, so a "not heating" complaint is frequently a pan problem, not a fault. Here's how to tell a cookware issue from a real failure.
1. Check Your Cookware
Induction only works with magnetic (ferrous) cookware. If a magnet sticks firmly to the bottom of your pan, it works; if not (aluminum, copper, most glass/ceramic), the cooktop won't heat it and may flash an error or show a pan-detection symbol. Also, the pan must cover enough of the element — too-small pans aren't detected.
2. Read the Error Code
Induction cooktops show codes for faults: pan-not-detected symbols, "E" codes for overheating (often from blocked ventilation underneath), or sensor errors. Note the code and check your manual — many clear once you fix airflow or use proper cookware.
3. Check Power and Reset
Induction cooktops draw a lot of power and use a 240V circuit (built-in) or a dedicated outlet (portable). If totally dead, check both halves of the breaker. A control glitch often clears with a power-cycle at the breaker for a few minutes.
4. Overheating Shutdown
If it heats then shuts off, the cooling fan or vents underneath may be blocked, causing a thermal shutdown. Make sure the vents aren't obstructed and the unit has clearance. Persistent overheating with clear vents points to an internal fan or electronics fault (technician territory).
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FAQ
Most often the cookware isn't magnetic (test with a magnet) or is too small to be detected. It can also be an error code from blocked ventilation/overheating, or a power issue. Check the pan first.
Only magnetic (ferrous) cookware — cast iron and magnetic stainless steel. If a magnet sticks firmly to the pan bottom, it works on induction.
Sources
Documents this guide was checked against. How we verify.
Always unplug an appliance and shut off its water supply before servicing. This guide is informational and not a substitute for a qualified technician.